Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Transportation and Roads

Transportation and Roads

The road system in Ghana is something to behold.  When we left the airport, the roads were modern by any standard.  I can’t recall seeing any stop lights, but they may have been there.  I do remember round-abouts and lots of traffic (it was a Wednesday night around 9 p.m. so I can’t figure the reason for the traffic).  There were multi-lane roads that were well paved, but the further that we got from the city, the less the traffic, and the greater the change in the roads.  While there is a strong police presence alongside the roads in Ghana (our road to Accra has a permanent police check station), you don’t see many patrol cars travelling in the traffic (SUVs), and I’ve been told that there’s no formal ticket system (written ticket, court date, etc.).  I’ve seen no method for the police to determine the speed of a another car, so in order to keep cars from going too fast in more residential areas, the Ghanaians rely on the use of SPEED BUMPS (there are couple of speed limit signs, but no one obeys them that I can tell).  These things are just about everywhere; they range from three small strips of asphalt across the road separated by about 5 feet, to the raised bump that’s about 5 feet in width.  The real problem with the speed bumps is that the asphalt after the bump deteriorates because of the added force of the tires on them, and potholes and ruts result.  This results in cars weaving left and right at the speed bumps to avoid the potholes – what fun!

Beyond the speed bump method for making cars slowdown in built up areas, there’s the problem of the unpaved roads.  When we first arrived, I could only see the one main road that took us to/from Accra.  I began to wonder if there were any other paved roads.  But as we went to the other school campus (Adenta) closer in Accra, and as we entered more densely populated areas, a few other paved roads showed up as lateral roads.  So what about the unpaved roads?  They are ubiquitous, and with rare exception, you wouldn’t call them a road, but more of a path.  Not only are they narrow, but we’ve been in the wet season, so they are carved in various ways from the water that has flowed in them (It’s been a few days since we’ve had any rain, but there are still some nice sized mud holes along them).  I never noticed these unpaved back roads, until we went to church (the church building is located along an offshoot “path” that connects to an unpaved road (to get to church you have to travel a short distance along this offshoot path which has a small rivulet running through it (it’s dry now) that makes for an SUV-only road)), and then went to the other campus.

We have two methods for getting to the Adenta campus – ride in with my son-in-law the whole way when he goes to the campus, or pick up the school bus part way there (Emmanuel drives us to the pick up point at Oyibie and then it’s on the bus for the rest of the way).  The school bus however, is most likely not the image you’re considering.  The bus can hold about 35 individuals (7 rows of 5 chairs), but only through the use of jump seats.  Each row has two chairs on each side, and a jump seat in the middle aisle that gets put down once all the seats are filled up behind the jump seat.  The bus ride wouldn’t be so bad if we stayed to the main paved roads, but………..when we’re going to the school in the morning, the traffic backs up, so the driver takes the back roads to get to the school (what fun – there are times when I wonder if the bus will tip over due to the ruts), and in the afternoon upon returning to Oyibie, we drop off a number of students along the way which requires going along the back roads to get to their houses.  The ride into the school is about 20 minutes to Oyibie with Emmanuel, and then about 40 minutes from there to the school in the bus.  But the ride home is about 1 hour, 40 minutes from the school to Oyibie in the bus, and then 20 minutes home.  Of course, in the afternoon, it’s much warmer (okay, hot), with lots of bodies in the bus, and we don’t go very fast along the back roads (no, there’s no air conditioning).  Ah, the joys of riding a bus again (it’s been a few years).

So far I’ve seen no accidents, and only one wrecked car beside the road, though not for any amount of safe driving – passing with oncoming traffic is quite common since the roads contain large trucks, cars, tro-tros (private “buses” – some type of Nissan mini-van that crams in 10-15 people in a space for about 8 people), taxis (small Toyota type vehicles that only hold 3-4 people), all going at varying speeds – the taxis “patrol” the highway for customers so they go slowly unless they’re transporting people, the tro-tros are constantly pulling over picking people up or dropping them off, and the trucks go a wide range of speeds.  It’s a fluid situation!  And then to add to all this mix, the pedestrians walk alongside the road, and don’t forget the street vendors that line the road (fortunately there are no vendors that hawk IN the road – that’s only in the busy city intersections).  Very few roads have any sidewalk system, so the pedestrians just do their best, and we all get along!

Oh, and don’t forget the ubiquitous horn – it reminds me of Italy.  Horns are used constantly, but usually to warn some car/truck pulling out that you are there.  At least it’s not as bad as in Italy where the shortest time interval ever measured occurred at a stoplight that turned from red to green – the time from the light turning and the driver behind you honking their horn (okay, it’s a joke).


Michael 

Monday, September 29, 2014

Accommodations and food -- Michael

When we arrived at night, things were pretty much in a bit of a blur (the drive home with all the street vendors along the wayside), and being a bit tired, we would probably have accepted a mud hut with an outhouse.  Fortunately, our living conditions are much better.  We are staying in the student housing at the Ayikuma campus of the school (There are two school campuses – one in Adenta which is a suburb of Accra, and is where the K-12 is currently being taught, and Ayikuma which is further outside of Accra, pretty much in the country, and is where the pre-nursing/nursing and agribusiness program will be held (the high school used to be in Ayikuma)) .  The housing consists of two buildings that are two stories tall and hold about 5 dorm rooms on each floor.  Our dorm consists of a living area about 10 by 20 feet square with a round table with four chairs, a long table, and a couch, two bedrooms – one for Mariah and Sam (separate bunk beds), and one for Kristin and Michael, a bathroom with sink, shower, and toilet, and a spare room that currently has old, removed air conditioning units in it.  Each room has a fan mounted on the ceiling and a compact fluorescent light.  The main bedroom also has a wood closet for clothes and things.  No, there is no air conditioning, and the temperatures get into the upper 80s with 80+% humidity.  All the windows are open with screens on the outsides, and the interior doors have screen on the upper couple of feet to allow air to flow throughout the house.  The ceiling is quite high at 9 to 10 feet .  There are electrical outlets (when the power is on) that have their own African three prong arrangement (neither European nor American).  The toilet doesn’t flush (well, with any effect), so in the shower is a bucket and a water spout with which to fill it; the bucket water is poured down the toilet to achieve a flush.  The water is under some pressure has cisterns that hold the water outside the building are elevated about 30 feet, but the shower is not heated (of course, you don’t really want a hot shower, except for that initial shock each morning).  The water safety is somewhat unknown, so while it works for showering and toiletry, we use bottled water for brushing teeth.  The construction in Ghana is strictly in concrete/block and mortar because of the two most plentiful creatures – termites, and ants (pictures of termite mounds to follow).  Consequently, the walls are concrete block finished in a glaze, and the floors are all tile.

As mentioned, the power goes out routinely.  I haven’t figured out the pattern yet (if there is one), but we usually lose power once a day for anywhere from 3 hours to 12 hours.  Nobody knows the real answer, but evidently, the Ghanaian electric company (nationalized) can’t generate sufficient power to meet the country’s needs, so a rolling power outage occurs throughout the country.  Apparently, power is not cutoff on Sundays though.  The school has a diesel generator that can power the needs of the campus, but it also seems to have frequent maintenance needs, and diesel is somewhat costly (at the current exchange rate of around 3 Ghanaian dollars (known as CDs) for one US dollar, and current diesel/gasoline prices – they’ve had a spat of inflation that seems to be calming, the cost of is comparable to US prices), so the generator is not always run when the power goes out – one must constantly have their electronic devices charged when the power is available, and always be ready with flashlights and candles for the power outages.

Food is cooked for us at the campus kitchen and almost always consists of rice and some kind of gravy with either chicken or fish and vegetables (the school is attempting to go food independent so it’s farming its own vegetables and fish (aquaponics)).  Breakfast is some kind of porridge usually in rice, but sometimes a gruel I call “Hot, brown, yoghurt” (it’s not yoghurt, but it tastes kind of like it).  Dairy products are near non-existent which is why we bought over 10 kilos of Dutch cheese in Amsterdam enroute.  The cheese is always a treat after dinner on special occasions.  So far we’ve had no gastrointestinal distress issues and weight hasn’t gone up or down much, so hopefully we’ll keep on trucking.


Michael 

Monday, September 22, 2014

Preparation and Travel

We began preparing for this African adventure years ago by earning/budgeting sufficient to pay off the house, and getting one of our children to live in the house while we were gone (Irene, Tim, and Dominic).  More immediate preparations were to get a leave of absence from Michael’s work, instruct Tim and Irene how to run the Fry Funny Farm (chickens, bees, and gardens), and then obtain passports for Mariah and Sam, followed by multiple attempts at Ghanaian visas for the four of us.  This summer was a bumper year for crops – berries, apples, honey, the garden, and even corn, so from August onward, we were running around with our hair on fire trying to harvest, process, and prepare for our departure.  We squeezed in a visit to family in the lower 48 (Dad Pratt and Louise, Emerson, Cassandra, Lily, and Christian, and then Micah, Rachel, and Rosy, Rilie, Mandy, Michael, Macy, Chase, and Charlie, and Oma, Opa, Marialyn, and Larry).  Even after that trip, we made an overnight flight to attend Rilie and Mandy’s wedding.  The wood storage is nearly full, the freezers and refrigerators, and bin storage is full, and we got packed ready for the trip.  I’m tired thinking about it.

We got up on 16 Sep 2014 at 0300, left the house at 0406, got to the airport and checked our 8 bags (each ~50 # -- they included lots of clothes and books for Tasha and the school), and then gate checked 3 more carry-on bags, and were off to Seattle.  Layover in Seattle was uneventful, and we headed for Amsterdam.  The flight was great with the good ol’ days of service from the airlines rather than trying to wring every penny out of you for digiplayers, food, luggage, etc.  We arrived at Schiphol airport near Amsterdam with 7 hours to kill, so we loaded up into the train to central station, took the tram to Albert Kuip straat markt, and bought cheese and chocolate for Tasha and family.  On return  to centraal stasie, we got separated, and there was some panic as the tram doors closed once Michael got on, but didn’t let Kristin and kids on.  They were quick enough to take the next tram and we were rejoined at the station.  We got checked in to our next flight and awaited the foreign part of our trip.  The flight to Accra was uneventful, and we arrived around 8 p.m. with the sun well set.  Passport control took some time (slow lines) complete with finger and thump printing for Michael and Kristin, and while we first thought our luggage didn’t make it (most everyone else had gotten their luggage, but there was nothing for us when we got to baggage claim), all of it did eventually arrive, and we cleared customs with our “helpers” – custom workers “assisting” us through customs and then looking for a tip afterward.  Finally we emerged into the dark outside and quite a crowd.  Fortunately we quickly found Emmanuel and Tasha and were able to get loaded up and on our way (not until another group of helpers were tipped – Tasha had prepared us for this employment method). 


The sights and smells of Accra were comparable to other places Michael has been (Sardinia Italy, Jordan, Turkey, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Iraq, Korea, Singapore, and Malaysia) – the acrid smell of burnt plastic (garbage is burnt rather than buried), the crazy traffic, the heat and humidity, but the traffic hawkers, and the unending stalls of street vendors was new – employment in Ghana appears to consist mostly of selling something from a shack alongside the street (or going car to car in traffic).  After an hours’ ride, we arrived at the school compound in Ayikuma, got to our apartment (student housing), unloaded, and went to bed).  We had arrived.

Michael

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Getting Ready...

We have been planning for years.  I quit my job, Michael took a leave of absence from his, and we pulled the kids out of school.  On Tuesday morning we begin our 30-hour trek to Accra, Ghana, Africa.  We plan to be there 7 months, perhaps double that. 

Today we talked to the kids at length about bugs and contaminated water and uncooked food and DON'T WANDER OFF (our beautiful 13 year-old is famous for this).  Scared everybody some, but a little healthy environmental respect is definitely called for. 
Mariah, Kristin, Michael and Sam thinking about going...

May God bless and protect us as we head into our new adventure.